Grubtrotters

The uber-chic new Venice outpost of the Chicago-based Intelligentsia coffee bar — already well known to the caffeinated Silver Lake crowd — officially opened on Abbot Kinney today, just in time to satisfy my need for an afternoon pick-me-up. I gave up coffee a year ago, and it’s damned hot today so I opted for a chilled organic osthmanthus silver needles white tea from the (mysterious, according to Victor) Fujian region of China. White tea has less caffeine than any other real tea, and Intelligentsia doesn’t actually heat the tea and add ice. Instead, they cold brew it by letting it steep overnight and serve it without ice. How’s that for haughty?

OK, so I’m being a little hard on the place, which is getting a ton of buzz among foodies. As a Venetian for more than a decade, it’s been drilled into my head to resist the dreaded chain stores. And yes, Intelligentsia is a chain. But Pinkberry long ago invaded the neighborhood so I should probably just give it up and admit that Intelligentsia is seriously into quality. The flavor of the white tea was fantastic, and frankly, I hate ice in my drinks. They know what they’re doing here, and if you’re a brew connoisseur, this is among the best you’re going to find. They’re also into “direct trade,” which is like fair trade plus.

My yoga buddy Kathy ordered an iced coffee, and we shared two desserts, a lemon tart and raspberry breton. I thought the lemon tart was delicious, very soft and lemony and, well, tart. The raspberry dessert had fresh raspberries and pistachios, which I love, but the crispy bottom of the dessert was a little too hard for my taste. I like a dessert that’s easier to eat without a knife. The bill came to $19.25.

The cafe itself is sleek and airy and bright, but it’s a little strange, too. The bar is round. You step through an arched corridor and order before moving around the bar to another person. You keep getting passed off, it seems, around the circle. Everyone is knowledgeable and happy to explain how the coffee and tea are special so it’s not a big deal. But then there’s the seating. There are only a couple of tables outside, and the rest are bleacher seats, inside and out. It’s a little tough to eat a tart on bleachers. It’s not like there’s some sort of sport to watch, unless you consider checking out the attire of the local hipsters a sport.

Frankly, I’d rather brew my white tea at home and relax at the local cafe Abbot’s Habit if I want a place to hang out. That’s a comfier environment, less of an industrial feel. But if you’re a die-hard coffee or tea drinker and don’t care to stick around, Intelligentsia might just be the place for your morning fix. –Jenny

Intelligentsia, 1331 Abbot Kinney in Venice.