Los Angeles Times critic S. Irene Virbila gives BLT Steak two stars in this week’s Food section. I had my birthday dinner at BLT Steak’s Washington. D.C. location last year, with James Carville, surrounded by a bevy of blondes, sitting a few tables away. The meal was fantastic. Those cheese popovers are unbelievably addictive. We haven’t had the pleasure of eating a full meal at LA’s BLT Steak, located in the former Le Dome spot, but I did attend a cocktail party there recently, and the appetizers and charcuterie were delicious. I asked our waiter the secret to the gooey popovers, and his response was “eggs.” There’s practically an entire carton in each one. Irene warns readers to “go easy there or you’ll be leaving with a well-filled take-home bag.” Frankly, I don’t see the problem. Here’s her take on the steaks:

And here the beef comes in all its carnivorous glory. The BLT cut is a 32-ounce bone-in double sirloin, presumably for two. (That’s what the menu says.) And though it is very good, I think the Porterhouse outshines it. The latter, again for two, weighs in at 40 ounces, and at $79, i.e., under $40 a person, is priced lower than some others around town.

The cooking from chef de cuisine Noah Rosen, a veteran of Wilshire and Mélisse, is spot-on. Order your steak charred, medium rare, and it comes out exactly that. The thick 16-ounce New York strip is excellent too. But the real bargain is the hanger steak, 10 ounces of flavorful beef for a modest $24.

She reserves her highest praise for the desserts:

But this latest BLT Steak takes an original tack with the desserts. Here’s one steakhouse where the sweets truly deserve a place at the table. The sundae one night is so beautifully crafted we have to ask who the pastry chef is. It turns out she’s Danielle Keane, late of Wilshire in Santa Monica, where she initiated an ice cream social evening. Here, her desserts seem more polished and inventive.

I’m sure the desserts are wonderful, but whatever you do, don’t skip the popover to save room. Trust us on this one. –Jenny