Grubtrotters

I have been traveling nonstop for the past three weeks and haven’t had any time to stop and post. Between Florence, Siena, New York and New Jersey, I have had some amazing meals that I hope to find time to blog about in detail. But let’s start with last night’s meal and work backwards. I’m visiting my in-laws in Northern New Jersey. They’re Chinese, and they sure know how to eat. Last night, we visited a nondescript little joint in a Wayne, NJ strip mall called Cheng Du 23. From the outside, it didn’t look promising, with a sign touting “Asian Cuisine.” It opened about a year ago, and Vic’s parents didn’t have high hopes, either, until they tried it and found some of the most delicious, authentic Sichuan food around. They’re regulars now. If your palate is adventurous and you like your Chinese food spicy, you will love Cheng Du 23.

Vic’s parents ordered a ridiculous amount of food — so much so that the owner, who was waiting on us, asked if we were expecting more people. I have no idea how Vic’s Mom stays so skinny. She must weigh less than 100 pounds, and she chose five entrees and two appetizers for the four of us.

We started with a traditional Sichuan cold appetizer of ox tongue and tripe in a roasted chili peanut sauce. This was actually the spiciest dish we had all night so starting there made me a little nervous. But it was just this side of painful. The strips of tripe were long and thin like a flat pasta, with tiny chunks of tongue mixed throughout. For the uninitiated, tripe is made from the stomach of the ox. One of the things I appreciate about the Chinese is something they share with the Florentines in Italy: They make use of parts of the animal that many cultures waste.

My favorite dish, the lamb with special pepper sauce, doesn’t look that great in the photo (sorry, we only had the iPhone) but was really distinct and delicious. Strips of lamb were seasoned with hot red peppers and a cumin found only in the Himalayas near Tibet. This is not something you see on many menus in the U.S., and the flavor had a wonderful, smoky depth. If you have the chance to try this, please do. It’s worth a drive. Even smokier than the lamb was the tea smoked duck, another traditional Sichuan dish that was really done well here. All the flavors were strong, and the meat was moist.

Of course, most moist of all were the wonderful steamed juice buns (labeled “bum” on the menu). These dumplings were filled with soup and pork. We had to carefully pick up the delicate buns with a spoon, take a small bite and then sip out the soup before eating the rest of the dumpling. I had read about similar dumplings at Joe’s Shanghai Restaurant in New York but had never actually tried them until, now. How fun!

We also loved the whole fish in Chili Sauce, which was striped bass with minced pork and homemade Sichuan pickles on top. Fresh, hearty and fantastic. With all these strong flavors, the two least spicy dishes kind of got lost in the mix. The shrimp duet was a combination of stir fried shrimp with vegetables (mushrooms, carrots and baby corn) and jumbo shrimp with garlic sauce. We also had a chicken in garlic sauce, with the breast meat shaped like little flowers. Both were lovely, but the flavors paled next to the other dishes. If you don’t like much spice, these are the ones for you. Then again, I took a menu home and was shocked to read that the spiciest dish we ate (the tripe) only had one star next to it, denoting “medium spicy.” I can’t imagine how hot the two-star “extra hot and spicy” and four-star “very hot and spicy” dishes are. I think most mouths would be on fire. There’s also a handful of Americanized Chinese dishes, such as General Tso’s Chicken, listed as lunch specials. But skip those boring choices and go for something authentic and special. You won’t regret it. — Jenny

Cheng Du 23, 6 Willowbrook Blvd., Wayne, NJ, 973-812-2800

More proof that bacon is rarely the wrong answer. The world’s oldest person, 115-year-old Gertrude Baines of Los Angeles, credits her longevity to the occasional piece of crispy bacon. According to People magazine, she’s also a big fan of sweets. “She said she didn’t care what kind of cake or ice cream we got her, that she would eat anything,” a hospital administrator told People. Happy birthday, Gertrude! May you enjoy bacon and cake for many more years. — Jenny

When I think of Coast, the chichi oceanfront restaurant at Shutters on the Beach in Santa Monica, BBQ is not the first thing that comes to mind. But Thursday is Blues & BBQ night, and for $25, you can gorge on an appetizer of spicy chilled “peel ‘n eat” shrimp with cocktail sauce and an entree of ribs, chicken leg and thigh, brisket and sausage, with a side of coleslaw and cornbread — all accompanied by live music (albeit a rather sedate form of background blues).

This is hardly your typical down-home BBQ. When I was there on a recent Thursday, Cindy Crawford sat at a table nearby with her husband and kids. We had a view of the ocean. It was lovely. And messy, too. Initially, I felt uncomfortable peeling the shrimp with my hands and tried doing it with a knife and fork. After several minutes of struggling with a single shrimp, I grew resigned to the fact that I’d have to get over myself and get my hands dirty to enjoy this little meat fest. And, I actually did enjoy it. The ribs were moist and tender, the brisket nice and smoky. I definitely like my sauce to crank up the heat more, but overall, it wasn’t half bad, especially for the price. You’ll probably drop more dough at the hipster dive Baby Blues BBQ in Venice, which just opened its second outpost in WeHo.

Call it recession chic. Even at upscale joints, bargains are in. Extravagance is out. At least, expensive extravagance is out. Shutters is still pouring champagne, but you won’t have to spend a fortune to enjoy. The hotel is offering Champagne Wednesdays in the lobby lounge every week from 5 p.m. until midnight. You can sample a selection of luxury champagnes — a flight of five, in fact — and hors d’oeuvres for $30. It’s $25 for just champagne without the hors d’oeurves, but for that price, why would you skip the food part of these sample pairings: Canard-Duchene Brut paired with Duck Prosciutto and Fig Marmalade topped with Black Pepper; Henroit Blanc Souvrain paired with Charentais Melon, Blue Vein Cheese and Pickled Cherry; or Villa Sandi DOC Valdobbiandene Cuvee complimented by White Anchovies with basil and cured lemons? Now that sounds more like Shutters. Typically pricey spots are obviously doing whatever it takes to lure customers back. It seems to be working, and I suspect these deals won’t last long. So take advantage while you can. – Jenny

Vic and I were in a bit of a mood today, but after checking out Taste in Pacific Palisades, we cheered right up. Taste is the new beach outpost of the West Hollywood restaurant of the same name. Located just 15-20 minutes from our Venice pad in a nondescript strip mall a few blocks up from the beach, this location is a lot more convenient for us. We’ve never been to the WeHo spot so we can’t compare the two. But a hearty meal of pure comfort food in huge portions was just what we needed on a cloudy beach Sunday.

When we walked in at 6 p.m., it was still light outside, but Taste was a contrast in dark — low lighting, curtains blocking out the sun, dark wood furniture and candles on the wall. It’s not exactly a beachy spot with a patio or sidewalk cafe. It looks more like a casually elegant place you’d find, well, in West Hollywood. We weren’t feeling sunny and cheery so it suited our mood just fine.

Our helpful waiter/actor Brian Lloyd looks like the younger brother of Samantha’s boyfriend on “Sex and the City,” but I digress. He suggested we order the white truffle oil and mushroom mac & cheese, and how could I resist?  Whatever you say, Brian. Made with white cheddar and Parmesan and topped with smoked mozzarella, it was quite yummy. The smoke of the mozzarella really dominated, and the truffle oil let you know it was there without overwhelming the dish like the drunk guest at a party. Vic ordered chicken tortilla soup, which seemed oddly out of place on the menu. We also couldn’t find any tortillas, but Vic thought the soup was a winner — zesty and flavorful. He actually preferred it to the mac & cheese. (Maybe that’s just because it was one dish Brian didn’t recommend.)

Our entrees were both creamy and rich. Vic got the Kobe beef meatballs over linguine with white truffle cheese fondue. (The chef doesn’t skimp on his truffle oil here.) The meatballs were coated in a sweet tomato sauce. My dish, the wild mushroom risotto, also reeked pleasantly of truffles. The menu lists two optional additions to the risotto, chicken and black tiger shrimp. But if you ask nicely, your waiter might let you do what I did, which is to top the risotto with braised short ribs, another entree on the menu. You can’t get any more decadent than that. This heavenly dish was so filling that I couldn’t finish it and had no room left for dessert. Thankfully, my amazing human vacuum cleaner of a husband saved us from having to bring home any leftovers.

For those who are not inclined to carbo load like we did, there are healthier menu items. The table next to us was feasting on a lovely salmon salad, and Brian recommends the pear and prosciutto salad starter. Order that, and you might even have room left for the bread pudding. — Jenny.

Taste, 538 Palisades Drive; 310-459-9808

Susan Feniger’s much-buzzed about new restaurant, STREET, finally opens Monday the 3oth for dinner. Feniger is the chef/owner (along with Mary Sue Milligen) of Border Grill and Ciudad. Her new place will serve global street food inspired by her travels. I love eating food from street vendors, especially in Thailand, where I could get a delicious chicken skewer for pennies. Of course, in Cambodia, I saw street vendors selling giant black roaches, which people ate like popcorn. I suspect those won’t be on her menu. I also ordered a chicken in a tortilla from a Mayan vendor in Guatemala, and I’m certain it wasn’t chicken I was served. No idea what it was, but I didn’t take more than that one bite to find out.  Now that I’ve whetted your appetite, here’s the e-mail I just got:

At long last, Susan Feniger’s STREET will be
OPEN FOR BUSINESS
on Monday, MARCH 30th, for dinner!
Yes, it’s moved from dream to reality and we’d love
you to come check it out and see why we’ve been so
excited and passionate all these long months.

We think you’ll find it as irresistible as we do, we can’t wait to see you there enjoying the fruits of our labor of love.

So come eat at STREET soon!

Best,
Susan and Kajsa

In order to best serve you,
please make reservations by calling
323.203.0500
or go to www.eatatstreet.com

STREET
742 N. Highland
(above Melrose)
Los Angeles, 90038

Valet Park in the alley at the back of the restaurant.

My all-time favorite food film is:

A. Like Water For Chocolate

B. Babbette’s Feast

C. Tampopo

D. Super Size Me

E. Willy Wonka & the Chocolate Factory

F. Eat Drink Man Woman

G. Soul Food

H. Chocolat

I. The Silence of the Lambs

I’ve been meaning to write about The Bazaar by Jose Andres at the SLS Hotel for weeks now, but words have escaped me. There’s nothing like it in L.A. — or anywhere, for that matter. It’s the closest thing you will find to Vegas on the coast, the Cirque du Soleil of culinary adventures and a total sensory overload. Call it performance dining. The only place I’ve been that rivals its down-the rabbit-hole quality is Green T. Living in Beijing. Both are visual feasts, with settings that outshine the food but make the dining experience a magical, mystical journey — especially for people with ADD. The only problem is that element of surprise is ephemeral. I’ve been twice, and my second experience was not nearly as thrilling. The place gives you a fabulous sugar high the first time you see it, but sugar highs wear off.

Philippe Starck, with his quirky sensibilities, has his fingers all over SLS, as does owner Sam Nazarian. The Bazaar is designed like a three-ring circus, with two tapas restaurants on the left, one traditional and one modern, called Rojo y Blanco (the colors match the names). They’ve got a wonderful jamon (ham) bar serving the formerly banned jamon iberico, and tapas ranging from the most traditional (simple but delicious tomato on toasted bread) to the most experimental molecular gastronomy creations. We’re talking syringe-like pipettes of mozzarella you squeeze into your mouth with a cherry tomato and a liquid olive served on a spoon that’s the consistency of an over-easy egg yolk, solid on the outside, pops on your tongue. Foam is clearly the chef’s friend. Whether you sit on the modern or traditional side, you can order from both menus. Caricature artists and fortune tellers entertain on weekends.

In the center ring is Bar Centro, which has a more limited menu of caviar, raw bar selections and a few tapas. Except for the predictable crowd of Beverly Hills babes, this place is crazy cool. Individual movie screens are embedded into a communal table in the center. There are all kinds of eclectic nooks and crannies with unusual furniture where you can sit and eat, surrounded by screens that morph monkeys into men and giant crystal-like light installations that scream 80s retro chic. Waiter/performers roll around carts featuring liquid nitrogen cocktails that smoke like a science experiment and cotton candy machines used to wrap the sugary pouf around foie gras on a stick. Behind that is the whimsical patisserie with its twisted (like it melted) white chandelier, featuring desserts on display under precious glass containers, even chocolate pop rocks. Yes, we’re talking the kind that killed Mikey.

The third ring of this bizarro world is a museum-like emporium from Moss with edgy and offbeat high-design trinkets. Lots of twig/woodsy themes, which are in now, a Dutch Delight dildo, golden pigs, finger puppets of recently deceased celebrities, including Heath Ledger — you know, the usual. Judging from the prices on display at Moss and the tab it must have taken to design this place, it’s clear the concept of a recession was nowhere in evidence when The Bazaar was planned. If you need an escape from reality, this is the place to be. And yet, the food prices are not nearly as bad as I expected. Tapas plates are small, so you have to watch what you order or the tab does add up, but there are dishes you can buy for $4 and $5.

And how is the food? I’m not sure it merits the Four Stars the LA Times lavished upon it, but I certainly had some delightful dishes during my two visits. The Spanish chef, star of the public TV series “Made in Spain,” owns several D.C. restaurants and trained under the master culinary experimenter, Ferran Adria of El Bulli in Spain. He helped popularize tapas in America, and for that, we thank him.

Victor’s favorite dish was the Philly cheesesteak, which was like a pastry — they call it “air bread” — with gooey cheese and Kobe beef in the center. They have a veggie version, too, with mushrooms called a “Hilly cheesesteak.” My sister, Gretchen, currently on a veggie diet, gave that one a thumbs up, too. I’m a fan of the bite-sized caviar and salmon roe cones and all the cured hams. And my friend Jan looked orgasmic while eating the foie gras cotton candy (only $5).

The group’s favorite dish might have been one the waitress recommended, which I probably would not have ordered otherwise, the jicama wrapped guacamole with micro cilantro and corn nuts. I’m not a cilantro gal, but this dish was crunchy and packed with flavor, a real winner. I also recommend the gambas al ajillo (shrimp and garlic), the Japanese tacos of grilled eel, shiso leaf, cucumber and wasabi, as well as the tomato and mozzarella pipettes, which just made me happy. The watermelon and tomato skewers are also juicy and refreshing, and the olive is awesome, if you like olives, which I definitely do.

Victor raved about the paella with shrimp, which he described as “rich and hearty.” I thought it was passable, nothing spectacular, but big enough for a table of four to share, which was nice. The wrinkled potatoes are also a good bet for a big group. The name makes the dish sound downright awful, but these tiny potatoes are cooked in seawater, soaking up the salt. I love salty. They come with a dip of parsley, cilantro, garlic and olive oil. The spinach dish with apple, pine nuts and raisins was also a highlight.

Andres is into old-time canning, although the canned dishes are actually made fresh daily so it’s more of a serving shtick. I was underwhelmed by the canned crab and mussels. The flavor was a little bland. Jan was also disappointed with her mushroom soup, which she said tasted like Campbell’s. Vic and I had a sip and thought she was being a tad harsh, but hey, it was her soup. I would also skip the carrot dish. My sister said it wasn’t worth mentioning. I know there was a steak dish and a tuna dish that I enjoyed, but their names and exact details escape my alcohol-sodden memory. Hey, it was my birthday dinner. I wasn’t taking great notes. (The sangria, by the way, is terrific.) After dinner, they lead you to the patisserie for dessert, where we had fun squeezing a capsule of chocolate into our mousse filled with pop rocks.

After my first visit to The Bazaar, I felt all sparkly and shiny, like I was floating. It was definitely one of the most exciting dining experiences of my life. By my second visit, I felt like Dorothy after Toto pulled the curtain back on the Wizard of Oz. The service, unfortunately, was way off that night. The table next to us, which sat down after we did, got at least two dishes before our drinks or any scrap of food arrived. By the time our first dish finally appeared, I was starving. We had to remind them to bring our drinks at that point. Not good. I felt like Estelle on “Seinfeld” describing dinner with George’s would-be in-laws: “We were sitting there, like idiots,  drinking coffee without a piece of cake!”

The pushcarts were also missing in action that night, but we ordered their tasty delights anyway. Unfortunately, our servers forgot to bring the cotton candy foie gras and caviar cones. After the meal ended, we had to remind them.  And this place got four stars? Where was the magic of my first visit? There’s no question The Bazaar is a must-see spot, especially for people who are into design. You can pretty much wander around for an hour and stay amused. The place has a kitschy sense of humor, and it’s fun. Whenever out-of-towners visit, I’m sure I will bring them to experience the insanity. However, the restaurant should not rest on its LA Times review, especially in this economy. They need to concentrate on the basics like service so locals will keep coming back. The hip place today can easily turn into the has-been of tomorrow. Keep the magic alive and serve the food on time. — Jenny

The Bazaar at the SLS Hotel, 465 South La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310-247-0400

Love it or hate it, communal dining is the latest “big thing” to hit L.A. I have a piece on Dinela.com discussing this trend of tables where strangers sit side-by-side, striking up conversations and occasionally sharing a slice of pizza. Personally, I love the serendipity of it all. I also love the fact that I don’t need a reservation. I can walk into Gjelina or AK or Bar Centro at the SLS Hotel on a whim and find a seat.

Los Angeles has a pretty entrenched reputation for isolation. Everyone gets into their hermetically sealed cars and drives to a specific destination. Only in neighborhoods such as Venice and Los Feliz do pedestrians actually walk around and run into one another. Not surprisingly, those are the neighborhoods where communal tables work best. Yet, I think we all crave community and connection, even if we’re a little afraid at first. And fear is a huge impediment. Here’s Evan Kleiman, host of KCRW’s “Good Food,” on the response to her experiment with family style dinners at Angeli Caffe:

“Some people would walk in and then immediately turn and start to walk out — I’m not sitting by somebody I don’t know. We’d have to sort of cajole them to sit down. And then they’d sit but leave spaces between them.”

However, some of us like a little danger. If you open yourself up to the unexpected, you never know what might happen. Joan McNamara, chef/owner of Joan’s on Third, calls her communal table “magical.” Strangers have met there, fallen in love and gotten engaged.

“I don’t think people want to feel isolated, especially in this economy,” says McNamara, who had an elderly friend once tell her the Great Depression wasn’t so terrible “‘because we were all in it together.’ Maybe that’s what people are finding now. If you were sitting at two separate tables, you would almost never hand food to someone else.”

Much has been written about the so-called Millennial Generation that helped sweep President Obama into office. They’re less into dating and more into hanging out with groups. They like cooperation, which might explain this new trend. Not to stereotype my own people, but Gen Xers may be just a tad more cynical. Here’s my friend Julia:

“I loathe communal tables. I also hate small plates. I like old fashioned dinners where you eat your own food with people you already know.”

As Victor often says, it’s a large and free nation. Each to her own. But in my book, interaction is good, and the unknown is worth exploring, even if you have to suffer through a few awkward moments. What do you think? An introvert’s worst nightmare or a whimsical delight? — Jenny

Good news for Tender Greens eaters. The new West Hollywood location, originally planned for last September, finally opens tomorrow, March 18, at 11:30 a.m. In addition to the fresh-to-order salads, sandwiches and other favorites from the Culver City location, Chef Fermin Arias will make homemade cheese, vinegars and salumi for the WeHo crowd. As we reported last May, WeHo is just one of many spots in the expansion plan for this casual, eco-friendly, lunch-focused eatery. I’m hoping this means the Culver City joint will be less crowded. Even if it’s not, I’m still inspired to brave the crowds, especially now that I know that its chef/owner Erik Oberholzter eats there everyday and manages to maintain a bod like this.  — Jenny

Tender Greens West Hollywood, 8759 Santa Monica Blvd., 310-385-1919.

Potato pizza? Sounds like a far-fetched idea in carb-phobic Santa Monica. I, too, was skeptical, but let me tell you, this creamy pizza with fontina cheese and rosemary is a decadent delight. It’s one of the highlights at chef Jason Travi’s new coastal Italian restaurant, Riva. (Travi also runs Fraiche in Culver City.)

We started our meal with the crudo, thin slices of raw fish similar to sashimi. A dorade with sea salt and olive oil melted in my mouth, followed by fluke with mint and blood orange. Very nice. Next we tried the tradizionale pizza with San Daniele proscuitto, tomato arugula, red onion and pecorino romano. I’m a huge proscuitto fan so I was shocked to discover that I enjoyed the potato pizza more. The proscuitto was sliced a bit thick for my taste, and there was something so rich and wonderful about the potato pizza. Pure comfort food.

Our group of four also shared three entrees, including the pork chop (pictured below), which was moist and tender.  Mine at home never are. I wish I knew the secret. (Writing that, I realize I sound like that cheesy Folgers commercial from the 70s. “Jim never has a second cup at home.”)

The shellfish diavolo (pictured below) was a messy mixture of lobster, mussels, clams and squid in a hot tomato sauce. The dish also contained fregola sarda, which was a new one for me. It’s a toasted breadcrumb-like pasta that’s apparently better for your blood sugar levels than most starches. Not sure if it made up for the potato pizza, but nevertheless. The dish was just OK. Not as much kick as I had expected.

My favorite entree, by far, was the lamb spezzatino (pictured below), a rich, comforting dish with a wonderful smoky flavor from the mozzarella. Definitely a winner, and it worked well with the 2004 Barbaresco.

Desserts were a mixed bag. I wasn’t a huge fan of the strawberry semifredo (pictured), but the ricotta fritters were amazing. They were like tiny, warm doughnut holes. Quite addictive.

Overall, Riva has a nice, upscale vibe, far less touristy than most of the other places near the Third Street Promenade.  It’s got a bar and a pizza bar, and the place was buzzing all night. With Mozza, Gjelina and Riva, I think LA’s reputation for having crappy pizza is finally an anachronism. — Jenny

312 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica, (310) 451-7482