Grubtrotters

Frida Mexican Cuisine in Glendale is huge. The newest outpost of the Beverly Hills original is part of the monster mall known as Americana at Brand. The bar is big. The dining room is spacious. The menu is extensive. Would it kill them to validate parking? Hey, the Cheesecake Factory validates, but then again you can eat at one of those if you’re in Tulsa or Boise, so a parking perk isn’t everything.

Frida had been open just a few days when I popped in for a lunch earlier this week. Business was brisk, but the room was large enough that the atmosphere didn’t scream chaos.

This was my first visit to any of the Frida locales, so I asked my server for suggestions on a signature dish. He was very helpful as he cited about four entrees and provided an explanation beyond what was printed on the menu. After mulling it over for a few minutes, I opted for the enchiladas suizas, one of his picks.

“An excellent choice,” he said.

I thought to myself, an excellent choice? You’re the one who recommended it. Who are you complimenting here, me or you? This was more of a humorous sidelight than an actual gripe, but for some reason it stuck in my head.

Anyway the enchiladas — shredded chicken with some green tomatillo sauce — were, in fact, quite tasty. Rich without being too heavy, an important consideration if you’re going to spend the rest of the afternoon power-shopping at Americana’s various upscale retailers. –Victor.

Los Angeles Times critic S. Irene Virbila gives BLT Steak two stars in this week’s Food section. I had my birthday dinner at BLT Steak’s Washington. D.C. location last year, with James Carville, surrounded by a bevy of blondes, sitting a few tables away. The meal was fantastic. Those cheese popovers are unbelievably addictive. We haven’t had the pleasure of eating a full meal at LA’s BLT Steak, located in the former Le Dome spot, but I did attend a cocktail party there recently, and the appetizers and charcuterie were delicious. I asked our waiter the secret to the gooey popovers, and his response was “eggs.” There’s practically an entire carton in each one. Irene warns readers to “go easy there or you’ll be leaving with a well-filled take-home bag.” Frankly, I don’t see the problem. Here’s her take on the steaks:

And here the beef comes in all its carnivorous glory. The BLT cut is a 32-ounce bone-in double sirloin, presumably for two. (That’s what the menu says.) And though it is very good, I think the Porterhouse outshines it. The latter, again for two, weighs in at 40 ounces, and at $79, i.e., under $40 a person, is priced lower than some others around town.

The cooking from chef de cuisine Noah Rosen, a veteran of Wilshire and Mélisse, is spot-on. Order your steak charred, medium rare, and it comes out exactly that. The thick 16-ounce New York strip is excellent too. But the real bargain is the hanger steak, 10 ounces of flavorful beef for a modest $24.

She reserves her highest praise for the desserts:

But this latest BLT Steak takes an original tack with the desserts. Here’s one steakhouse where the sweets truly deserve a place at the table. The sundae one night is so beautifully crafted we have to ask who the pastry chef is. It turns out she’s Danielle Keane, late of Wilshire in Santa Monica, where she initiated an ice cream social evening. Here, her desserts seem more polished and inventive.

I’m sure the desserts are wonderful, but whatever you do, don’t skip the popover to save room. Trust us on this one. –Jenny