Mac and Cheese On Wheels

May 30, 2008

Enough already about the casualities of the Hollywood writers strike. We’re here to celebrate a savory and beneficial byproduct of the walkout: Mac and Cheese that’s ready to eat and just a call or e-mail away from being delivered to your door.

Paddy Aubrey is the chef and brains behind this L.A. operation he calls Paddy Mac. Aubrey said he developed his Mac-and-Cheese chops by preparing the dish every night of his freshman year at Skidmore College. But it wasn’t until the writers strike that Aubrey got the inspiration to parlay his expertise into an enterprise.

Aubrey is a musician by trade — he plays bass — so he was used to spending time at home during the day. He was not used to spending the day with his wife Jamie Tarses, the former ABC Entertainment boss and now an executive producer of TBS’ comedy “My Boys.” But when the strike hit, she was home a lot more often.

“The Mac and Cheese was a way to keep me out of her hair,” Aubrey said.

Aubrey said he runs the business from their home in Hollywood, but the cooking is done at a professional kitchen he rents in Culver City. Paddy Mac offers five varieties in three sizes. It can be delivered hot or what Aubrey calls “fridge/freezer/oven ready.”

We chose the hot delivery for our sample taste. Aubrey sent four of the five offerings and apologized that the Truffled Mac was unavailable that day because of a supply issue. Always a bummer to miss out on truffles, but the other selections were winners in their own right.

The Ship is Aubrey’s basic no-frills recipe, although he does use five cheeses. This was simple but strong, a perfect dish to warm up with on a cold or rainy night.

The Gourmet features leeks, mushrooms and “a touch of Gruyere” in addition to the usual five-cheese foundation. This was Jenny’s favorite. It was hearty and complex like a full meal, not just a side dish.

The same could be same for my favorite, the Farm, which includes bacon, broccoli, goat’s cheese and some Feta. I’m usually not a huge Feta fan — I always ask them to take it easy on the cheese when ordering a Greek salad — but it works fine here. And of course, you know how we feel about bacon, and Aubrey agrees.

“Hey, people like bacon,” he said.

The Big Paddy Mac offers what you might expect. There is hamburger and tomato sauce in the mix. It wasn’t as good as the others, but I didn’t really mind it either. This was the only one Jenny didn’t like, only because the tomato sauce was too sweet for her taste, like ketchup. And if you know Jenny, you know she thinks that ketchup belongs on the same list with cockroaches and people who club baby seals as things that need to be expunged from this planet. But I digress.

Aubrey confirmed our impressions when we spoke afterwards. He said the Ship remains his best seller but that the Gourmet and Farm have generated plenty of buzz. “The Farm is really popular with parties,” he said.

Aubrey has used the local parenting website Peachhead to spread the word about his business, and he has also picked up jobs from Tarses’ TV connections. The intersection of those two worlds produced the craziest day of his Paddy Mac venture.

“I had a craft services order for a show, and they wanted about 55 or 60 pounds,” he said. “Plus I had six or seven moms from Peachhead. I was making everything to order. I stayed up all night, like 16, 17 hours straight making Mac and Cheese.”

Clearly he can handle large orders, so think about this as a party option. Your guests will love and thank you for serving up some rich and yummy Mac and Cheese instead of chips and pretzels. You can thank the writers strike. –Victor.

Disclosure: It was only during Victor’s interview with Aubrey that we learned his wife is Jamie Tarses. While an editor and reporter at Variety, Jenny wrote about Tarses in the course of covering the TV industry. Jenny later worked as a V.P. at ABC’s sister studio, Touchstone TV, during Tarses’ tenure at the network. We swear this is purely coincidence. Small world made even smaller through the magic of Mac and Cheese.


Ortolan Chef Wants TV Gig

May 30, 2008

A source tells Grubtrotters that hot French Chef Christophe Eme at Ortolan is on the hunt for a TV gig. Eme is married to actress Jeri Ryan so he certainly has the connections. His menu is full of creative genius so he’s got the chops. The only barrier? Some insiders think he needs to soften the heavy French accent. Personally, I think the accent is sexy, and I’m guessing there are others out there who agree. Stay tuned. — Jenny


New Chef at Murano

May 30, 2008

We are sad to confirm that Chef Kristi Richey has left Murano in West Hollywood and is “attending to family matters,” according to a restaurant spokeswoman. She has been replaced by Chef Joe Anguiano, who just joined Mirabelle in April. We do hope Richey lands on her feet. She’s a talented, young chef. And, as we mentioned in an earlier post, she’s a graduate of my Dad’s high school, Warrior Run, in small-town Pennsylvania. Murano definitely needs more business to make it, but we think Richey’s food was delicious. Just our two cents. –Jenny


Frida at Americana

May 28, 2008

Frida Mexican Cuisine in Glendale is huge. The newest outpost of the Beverly Hills original is part of the monster mall known as Americana at Brand. The bar is big. The dining room is spacious. The menu is extensive. Would it kill them to validate parking? Hey, the Cheesecake Factory validates, but then again you can eat at one of those if you’re in Tulsa or Boise, so a parking perk isn’t everything.

Frida had been open just a few days when I popped in for a lunch earlier this week. Business was brisk, but the room was large enough that the atmosphere didn’t scream chaos.

This was my first visit to any of the Frida locales, so I asked my server for suggestions on a signature dish. He was very helpful as he cited about four entrees and provided an explanation beyond what was printed on the menu. After mulling it over for a few minutes, I opted for the enchiladas suizas, one of his picks.

“An excellent choice,” he said.

I thought to myself, an excellent choice? You’re the one who recommended it. Who are you complimenting here, me or you? This was more of a humorous sidelight than an actual gripe, but for some reason it stuck in my head.

Anyway the enchiladas — shredded chicken with some green tomatillo sauce — were, in fact, quite tasty. Rich without being too heavy, an important consideration if you’re going to spend the rest of the afternoon power-shopping at Americana’s various upscale retailers. –Victor.


SIV Digs BLT

May 28, 2008

Los Angeles Times critic S. Irene Virbila gives BLT Steak two stars in this week’s Food section. I had my birthday dinner at BLT Steak’s Washington. D.C. location last year, with James Carville, surrounded by a bevy of blondes, sitting a few tables away. The meal was fantastic. Those cheese popovers are unbelievably addictive. We haven’t had the pleasure of eating a full meal at LA’s BLT Steak, located in the former Le Dome spot, but I did attend a cocktail party there recently, and the appetizers and charcuterie were delicious. I asked our waiter the secret to the gooey popovers, and his response was “eggs.” There’s practically an entire carton in each one. Irene warns readers to “go easy there or you’ll be leaving with a well-filled take-home bag.” Frankly, I don’t see the problem. Here’s her take on the steaks:

And here the beef comes in all its carnivorous glory. The BLT cut is a 32-ounce bone-in double sirloin, presumably for two. (That’s what the menu says.) And though it is very good, I think the Porterhouse outshines it. The latter, again for two, weighs in at 40 ounces, and at $79, i.e., under $40 a person, is priced lower than some others around town.

The cooking from chef de cuisine Noah Rosen, a veteran of Wilshire and Mélisse, is spot-on. Order your steak charred, medium rare, and it comes out exactly that. The thick 16-ounce New York strip is excellent too. But the real bargain is the hanger steak, 10 ounces of flavorful beef for a modest $24.

She reserves her highest praise for the desserts:

But this latest BLT Steak takes an original tack with the desserts. Here’s one steakhouse where the sweets truly deserve a place at the table. The sundae one night is so beautifully crafted we have to ask who the pastry chef is. It turns out she’s Danielle Keane, late of Wilshire in Santa Monica, where she initiated an ice cream social evening. Here, her desserts seem more polished and inventive.

I’m sure the desserts are wonderful, but whatever you do, don’t skip the popover to save room. Trust us on this one. –Jenny


Question of the Day

May 23, 2008

My favorite berry is:

A.

B.

C.

D. Other


National Escargot Day

May 22, 2008

Saturday is National Escargot Day.

We were unaware of this celebration until a Grubtrotters subscriber, whom we will call the Captain, alerted us to this spectacular photo and accompanying blog post at Gothamist.com.

Even if you’re among the sickies who find escargot to be disgusting, this is the perfect weekend to try. Just channel your inner Indiana Jones and be adventurous.

La Poubelle in Hollywood is an option, and we hear good things about Cafe Stella in Silver Lake. Here are a few more suggestions (and corny puns aplenty) from our friends on the Chowhound boards. — Victor.


Father’s Office II

May 21, 2008

It was girls night out at the new Father’s Office at the Helms Bakery Building in Culver City earlier this week. The second incarnation of this insanely trendy Santa Monica-born gastropub opened a month ago to massive hype and lines worthy of holidays at Disneyland. We figured some of the initial frenzy had probably died down by now, and, fortunately, we were right. My friends Janine and Kerith showed up at 6 p.m., and even though the place was buzzing, we had no trouble getting a table. What a refreshing change from the inaugural experience Victor and I had at the phone-booth-sized Father’s Office in Santa Monica. There we had to shovel in our burgers and beer standing up on one foot while using the other to kick away competitors. The Culver City space is much larger, with indoor and sidewalk seating, although the same rules apply. You order everything at the bar and take a plastic number back to your table to wait for delivery. No substitutions. No whining.

No reason to whine, really. The food is hearty and hand-licking delicious. All three of us ordered the burger. Of course. You have to get the burger. It’s legendary in size, spilling out of the bun, juicier than any Juicy Couture sweats and decadently dressed with sweet carmelized onions, bacon, Gruyere and Maytag blue cheese and arugula. My favorite part? No ketchup anywhere. I abhor ketchup. Always have. I had no trouble devouring the entire burger. And when Kerith filled up and sent the second half of hers away, I flagged down the server and snatched it back. I knew Victor would be pleased. He and I split the leftovers later.

FO’s side dishes get less attention, but man, oh man, were those Spanish mushrooms garlicky and good. Even the white anchovies were reminiscent of the ones we ate regularly on our honeymoon in Italy last September. After examining the impressive wall of beer, I washed all the pub grub down with a spicy, hoppy and fruity beer called the Russian River Brewing Damnation. Damn, was I happy. Sometimes you should believe the hype.

Father’s Office, 3229 Helms Ave., Los Angeles, 310-815-9820


Lift your spirits to the White House

May 21, 2008

In the spirit of the presidential race — and of course the 21st Amendment — we offer signature cocktails for the candidate of your choice. These concoctions are courtesy of Grubtrotters subscriber Alicia Knight:

Obama Bomb
2 Parts Blavod Vodka
1 Part Red Bull
1 Part Cranberry Juice

Fill a highball glass with crushed ice and pour in cranberry and Red Bull. Float Blavod Vodka on top. Garnish with a green apple fan.

Alicia’s inspiration: “The Obama Bomb is a take-off on the trendy high-end vodka and Red Bull favored by hipsters. The Blavod vodka is actually a black vodka with suitably high price points. Floated on top of the red part of drink, it looks very edgy. The cranberry juice helps cut the medicinal sourness of the Red Bull and refers to Ted Kennedy’s Massachusetts, where cranberries are widely grown. The green apple could bring the green into cocktail’s color theme of red, black and green after the Pan-African flag, or it could reference Obama’s noted inexperience, and if it’s a Granny Smith apple, could reference his granny.”

Clinton Cocktail

2 Parts Kentucky Bourbon
1 Part Triple Sec
2 Parts Florida Orange Juice
Dash of Bitters

Combine all ingredients in ice-filled shaker. Shake well.
Pour into old-fashioned glass that is half-filled with ice. Garnish with a Michigan maraschino cherry.

Alicia’s inspiration: “The Clinton Cocktail is a take-off on a classic that was a favorite of liberated women back in the 20s (in Europe) and 30s (in the U.S.) known as the Sidecar, which is typically brandy, orange liqueur (Cointreau) and citrus such as lemon juice. I made Hillary’s cocktail more like a current women’s favorite, Whiskey Sour, so I could use Kentucky Bourbon and orange juice for the sour. The drink can also be made with Crown Royal, but Pennsylvania’s primary has already happened. I substituted Triple Sec for the Cointreau because the working class can’t afford the high-priced Cointreau. And I added the dash of bitters because I like my sours made with bitters and well, it was apropos.”

McCain Straight Shooter

1 Part Patron Reposada
1 Part Kahlua
1 Part Barcardi 151

Layer liquors in order in a shot glass, floating the Bacardi 151 on top. Light the 151. Drink while flaming, if you dare.

Alicia’s inspiration: “This flaming shooter is an homage to the jet jocks (Naval aviators) like McCain who fly tough, talk tough and drink tough. The rum, because it’s a Navy drink. The tequila and Kahlua from Mexico, which shares a border with McCain’s state of Arizona. A strong drink that doesn’t mess around in the process of messing you up. A variation on the F***ked Up Motherf***er, which is 151 and Jaegermeister, flamed. I just don’t like the taste of Jaeg.”

Bottoms up. We’re guessing this wouldn’t have worked out as well if Romney were still in the race.


Saying No to Nobu

May 21, 2008

LA Times Food Critic S. Irene Virbila rips into Nobu Los Angeles for being more scene than substance. In her weekly review she disses the restaurant for its lack of creativity and for sub-par ingredients.

Some of the raw seafood is first-rate, some just a notch above mediocre. But the rice is gummy, and the nori sash around the sushi is not the best quality. Plus you don’t even get freshly grated wasabi. Maybe omakase is the way to go. Maybe that’s where his chef — Ricardo Sauri from Nobu Miami — breaks out his best stuff. Then again, maybe not.

…We’re already into the third course of our omakase, and still not a bite of carbohydrates. A Japanese restaurant where you don’t necessarily get rice? I’m thinking: This is perfect model food. Pretty to look at, lean, bites like bonbons, fish bonbons. And there you have it.

SIV seems most bothered by Nobu’s “commercialism and repetition,” especially his use of the same sauces he bottles and sells, even in omakase dishes. As for the aforementioned scene, she thinks the blandness of the food and crowd might be related.

The menu offers few surprises, but maybe that’s the point. The bicoastal or bicontinental beautiful people want their comfort food wherever they are. The rest of us come to see what they’re eating or what they’re wearing.

The one positive note for Nobu Matsuhisa is a nice plug for his Beverly Hills restaurant, also a favorite of ours here at Grubtrotters.

What’s missing is the unpredictability and sheer fantasy of the specials at his first restaurant, Matsuhisa, in Beverly Hills — that blackboard scribbled with intricate dishes and combinations of ingredients that the “Top Model”-material servers haul around from table to table. (That restaurant is still open.)