Down with the Tasting Menu

April 5, 2008

Is anyone else tired of tasting menus at fancy restaurants? In the past year or so, we have tried the tasting menus at some of the most critically acclaimed spots in the country, including Le Bernardin in New York (three Michelin stars), Manresa in Los Gatos (two Michelin stars) and Sona in Los Angeles (one Michelin star). The food was, for the most part, delicious, and yet, I somehow left feeling slightly unsatisfied.

At Sona, in particular, where I took Victor for his birthday, I was still hungry when I walked out the door, which is really kind of painful when you’ve dropped more than $300. The meal itself was like one big culinary tease. Each of us was given something different to taste, and, of course, we had to share. That initially sounded like a great idea because we got to try double the dishes. But each course was no more than two bites, which means we literally got a single bite of everything we tasted. Now granted, we have big appetites, but it just didn’t feel like enough food — or at least not enough of any single dish — to make me happy and justify the price.

The chef was out of town during our visit to Manresa, and again, I was underwhelmed. The meal just wasn’t that memorable. Le Bernadin was the best of the three, with some exquisite sauces that made me want to lick the plate. But I think I may skip the tasting menu in the future. They just seem to lack cohesion, and it always feels like you’re paying more for a less complete experience.


Pot Gelato

April 5, 2008

Last September during our honeymoon in Venice, Italy, Victor and I grew addicted to pistachio gelato. But it was an altogether different flavor of gelato we discovered last night in Venice Beach. After checking out the new art gallery G2 during the “First Friday” celebration on Abbot Kinney, we wandered down the street to The Farmacy, which is described on its sign as a “global organic medicine” shop. Inside, we were surprised to see “cannabis-enhanced” gelato under a glass ice cream counter, alongside herb-laced baked goods. Without a medical marijuana card, we were not allowed to taste the product. However, I did try a sample of “unenhanced” chocolate gelato, which was, well, pretty awful. Victor tried the unleaded strawberry and was equally unimpressed. What kind of operation is this, serving inferior gelato to the sick? We think AIDS and cancer patients deserve better. As for the rest of us, the woman working the counter said The Farmacy will soon offer gelato flavored with more conventional herbs such as lavender. No, thanks, I think I’ll pass. Pinkberry, anyone?

The Farmacy, 1509 Abbot Kinney Blvd, Venice; 310-392-3890.